RSPB Ynys Hir Research and Development Project. Funded by Wales Arts Council 2015

FUNDED BY THE ARTS COUNCIL WALES. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT PROJECT

ARIENNIR GAN GYNGOR CELFYDDYDAU CYMRU. PROSIECT YMCHWIL A DATBLYGIAD

Ynys Hir RSPB reserve is situated along the Dyfi estuary in the heart of mid-west Wales’s Dyfi biosphere, a landscape teeming with life and breath taking views that are everyday transformed by changing light, weather and tide, a speciality of being close to sea! I watched the hills rapidly turn green during Spring after a very wintery landscape of rusty oranges, purple-reds and warm browns.The light and colours through April are just spectacular, this is my favourite time of the year. The Dyfi valley, still with its dry reed beds and bare branches, creates a soft back drop of subdued ochres and earth colours setting off  the luscious green vibrant buds of new life. The light is perfect too, with the sun not too high in the sky yet.


Journal entries scribbled down during days spent exploring the reserve and spying on wildlife...

Feb-March

''High tide, the highest I’ve seen here at Ynys Hir. Mercury has aligned with the moon influencing a higher gravitational pull. The track from Dovey Junction is flooded and flowing making for a fun bike ride. I haven’t visited the reserve since the end of last summer, the bare oaks reveal their curly sculptural forms created by the prevailing westerly winds, the lichen coating the branches is gleaming after the rain. The silver birch put on a show against the stormy deep blue sky, the sun broke through and set them ablaze with burning bright oranges, deep reds, purples with hints of luscious light greens beginning to come through''.

The winter colour in Wales offers visual warmth in the long cold months, it is such a beautiful season to paint if you can keep your extremities moving and functioning! The high tides in winter had put on quite a show, when the incoming tide reaches new heights different species are forced to crowd together as they are pushed further and further out until taking to the air which is a spectacular sight against the backdrop of hills. Birds follow the waters edge either ahead of an advancing tide or behind one that is receding as many prefer to feed in damp mud where it is no doubt easier to probe. Each species is a specialist feeder with its own food source; bills and techniques vary. I love watching the little white egrets shaking their foot up and down in the sediment to disturb and reveal their prey.

''The woods at Ynys Hir around the centre are alive with birds; Bullfinch, Goldcrest, Treecreeper, Siskin, Chaffinch, Tits, Pheasants, Robins and the rest... A Robin sang away on a small tree as I sketched him, until he noticed me and flew over to land on my palette!''

There had been a week when the Little Grebes had been feeding and showing well before the estuary bend near the Domen Las hide. I had never seen these birds before and had been surprised and a little panicked to spot a tiny fluffy bird floating down the estuary. A heron had tried to make a meal of it but the Little Grebe performed a vanishing act into the water. There were three with varying colours and size so I imagined them to be a family, one had waited patiently by the rocky wall that cuts into the estuary as though waiting to be picked up by the others before heading back upstream.

''At the Marian hide and Saltings hide I'm met with the same view, first a row of white lumps (Little Egrets) sheltering behind the wiry grass, then a row of  black lumps (Cormorants) hunkered down the same against strong cold winds coming in from the sea.  Seagulls across the saltmarsh are squat too, beak wards to the wind''.

''Hail again. A beautiful young female Barn Owl had been found on the reserve and brought in. I took this opportunity to study its anatomy, plumage and facial features, I can't wait to see one again- alive!''.

''The Teal gathered in large numbers feeding at the estuary bend near the Domen Las hide. They remain in a tight knit group as they feed and move in unison out to water when spooked, creating a linear pattern of long skids as they land on the water''.

''The Cormorants have been roosting in a large group in the dead trees next to Domen Las hide. They are incredibly sensitive and intelligent birds, to watch them you have to be silent and unmoving. Once they hear me they all fly off and sit on the estuary bend at the foot of the hills waiting. One or two will continue to return to check the area before they all follow back together.
There appears to be a hierarchy amongst ranks for the best roosting spot on the highest branch. The highest Cormorant will defend this spot with its head flung backwards, making short cackling alarm calls, wings out to look big and poised for attack. Others are on constant watch too''.

March- May

''The winds have been up to 50mph here in Wales, so this week began with some indoor development work from my film footage. I did sneak out in the afternoon by cover and shelter of trees to paint the reflection of big Beech tree alongside the river. A Wren was flittering in and out of the wall of roots, it was such a deep warm reddish colour''.

''The birds are very noticeably paired up now, the Robins were singing complex tunes to one another with attentive ears. Two little white egrets sheltered in the estuary banks preening together. Two Cormorants landed on the bank right in front of the hide for a change, it was really nice to see them on the ground and not high up the trees. Two pairs of Oystercatchers, they made a lot of noise with bobbing heads. A lot of mini squirrels are now running riot around the visitor centre looking very sweet''. 

''Stepping onto the reserve I was first stopped in my tracks by a Blue Tit, fluffed up to twice it's size yet still looking incredibly tiny, it's face buried in its tummy having a thorough preen. The Song Thrush further on was settled low in the trees singing my favourite phrases. The sunlight was making the morning dew drops glitter with the full colour spectrum''.

''The water was a gorgeous milky pinkish soft blue with a dazzling glittering surface, somewhat mesmerized I headed to the pools banks set back and held up by long great tangling Oak roots.  The little alcoves carpeted in a magical ancient moss make for a comfortable spot. I settled here for an afternoon and soon had a pair of Grey Wagtails and Tree creepers busy feeding very close by which was a real treat. Three Ospreys spotted along the Dyfi estuary! Brilliant yellow brimstone butterflies fluttering through the woods''.

''The week of the Pied Flycatchers! I soon found three pairs settled into nest boxes on the reserve. My favourite spot has been on the edge of the woods close the board walk, such a beautiful setting! I sat and sketched for hours. There were Willow Warblers, Chiffchaff, Wrens, Robins, Tits and Black caps. A Peregrine flew over head in a casual battle with a Crow. Summer Migrants are arriving everywhere and the reserve is throbbing with the sound of new birdsong. A group of Sedge Warblers with a lot to say to one another, were performing a fluttering vertical downwards flight along Dyfi junction. Kingfishers have returned. Little Grebes potentially nesting in large pool before Domen Las''.

''Beautiful spring light over the reed beds. Three days of open blue skies. I made studies from the Covert Du Hide as the light transformed the landscape in the evenings, sinking its blues into the hills and setting off the luscious bright green spring buds. There is such a wide range of colour in the landscape at this time of year between winter and spring. There are purple-reds in the bare branches, the dry bright reeds and the old heathers on the mountains making it look warmer than it is. These moments have been some of my favourite so far for landscapes. Sometimes the landscape really seems to paint itself and all you can do is try to keep up!''

This project has been such an amazing opportunity to get to know Ynys Hir even more. It has long been a favourite place in Wales and to spend time intimately observing the area has given wonderful insights into the wildlife activity and the land through the changing seasons.

Earlier on I studied Betty Edward's book on Colour, which fascinated me. She looks at light affecting colour, colours affecting one another and how to both read and manipulate the hue, value and intensity through understanding the structure and relationships of the wheel in relation to your pigments. Its a very practical book that got me looking at colour objectively, helping me learn to pay attention to its subtle nuances and variations as light falls over a subjects.